Above-ground Pools (20)

Typically, in the round category, there are 15′, 18′, 21′, 24′, 27′, 30′, and 33′. In the Oval shapes, we have 12’x24′, 15’x30′, and 18’x33′. Of course, there are some manufacturers that produce different sizes than these but for the most part, these are the traditional sizes. They come in different depths, 48″, 52″, and 54″.

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Typically, it takes 1-1/2 days. The first day is excavating, assemblying, and getting the water started. The second day is cutting in the liner, hooking up the equipment, and then instructing how to use everything.

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Really, it depends on the size and shape of the pool. Decide on the size you’re looking for and go to our “Contact” page and contact us to send you an estimate. Our capable staff will have you a quote in 24 hours.

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We sale two brands with multiple sizes and shapes. The first is the Inspiration and the Harmony by Blue Cascade Pools. The second is the Barrier Reef and the Southport by Outback Above Ground Pools.

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There are many advantages to above ground pools. Above ground pools can be installed by a pool professional or self-installed within a weekend, and should you move, you can take your above ground pool with you. Above ground pools are extremely affordable and can be purchased in a variety of sizes to accommodate your backyard and give you the enjoyment without the cost.

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Yes, but you’ll need some help and be willing to do some hard labor. Please note that not all Above-ground Pools are the same.

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Most people begin to open their pool in the middle of April to the end of May.

By May 31st, most everyone’s pool is open to take advantage of Memorial Day holiday weekend.

I would suggest that if you have a mesh cover on your pool, open it in Early April to avoid the chance of getting algae. If you wait to the end of May, you will have a green pool (pictured below) and it will take a lot of time and money to get it clear again. The kids are not going to be happy either.

image

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Some pool builders sell and install above ground pools as well as inground pools, however, above ground pools can typically be purchased from a professional pool retailer in your area. Your above ground pool retailer can also provide professional installation for the pool or guide you through the installation process and will be able to help you with any warranty claims you may have in the future.

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No. Chlorine in a pool is one to three parts-per-million (1ppm – 3ppm). This is very similar to the city water that comes out of our faucet, and people have been watering their gardens with this for years.

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Don’t gamble with your safety — if you’re a professional excavator or a homeowner, smart digging always requires a call to 811. Knowing where underground utility lines are buried before you dig will help protect you from injury and prevent damages to utilities, service disruptions and potential fines and repair costs. Whether you’re planting a tree or shrub, or installing a deck or pool, every job requires a call—Even if you’ve called before for a similar project. The depth of utility lines varies, and there may be multiple utility lines in one common area. Marked lines show you the approximate location of underground lines and help prevent undesired consequences such as injury, service disruptions to an entire neighborhood, or costly fines and repair costs.

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Each color indicates a universal color to what is buried below ground.
Red – Electric
Orange – Communications, Telephone/CATV
Blue – Potable Water
Green – Sewer/Drainage
Yellow – Gas/Petroleum Pipe Line
Purple – Reclaimed Water
White – Premark site of intended excavation

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When considering what you’ll need to make your project a success, don’t forget the most important first step for any outdoor home improvement project: calling 811 before you dig.
As any professional will tell you, smart digging always means calling 811 before every job.
Homeowners often make risky assumptions about whether or not they should get their utility lines marked, but every digging job requires a call – even “small” projects like planting trees and shrubs.
When you call before you dig, you’ll prevent unintended consequences such as injury to you or your family, damage to your property, utility service outages to the entire neighborhood and potential fines and repair costs.
After all, do you really want to be the person who knocks out the neighborhood’s cable service during the big game?

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When the filter pressure rise 8-10 PSI over the clean starting pressure it is time to backwash. Turn the pump off and rotate the multiport valve to backwash. Turn on the pump and the dirty water will flow out the waste line. Once the water runs clear in the valve’s sight glass, turn off the pump. Rotate the valve to rinse. Turn on the pump for 20-30 seconds. This will clean out the plumbing lines and reset the sand bed. Turn off the pump, rotate the valve to filter position and begin to filter. Take a reading of this new clean starting pressure, so you have a reference point for the next backwash cycle. Water may need to be added to the pool to replace the backwashed water.

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Use the water pressure of your pool to generate power to light up your pool.

No wiring or batteries needed!
Simply replace your standard 1 1/2 inch threaded eyeball
Can be installed in seconds.

image

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There comes a time when a pool owner needs to vacuum a pool that has large amounts of debris such as heavy algae or leaves (Usually this is the case when you first open the pool). If the homeowner vacuums like normal, they have a good chance of contaminating their filter, plugging up the circulation lines, or just clouding up their pool.
What is the solution? Those that have filters with the 6 way Multi-port valve can vacuum their pool on Waste. This position by-passes the filter and sends all the unwanted debris through the waste line. This eliminates clogging up the filter or clouding up their pool. Note: this procedure drains the pool so you may have to stop in the middle of this procedure to refill the pool.

Steps to Vacuuming on Waste:

1. Connect the vacuum head to the T-pole and then connect the swivel end of the vacuum hose (if equipped) to the vacuum head. Fully extend the T-pole and lower the vacuum head to the bottom of the deep end of the pool. Use care not to disturb any debris on the pool floor.

2. Connect the skim vac to the other end of the hose and place over a return fitting to purge the air from the vac hose. At this time the vac head and all of the vac hose is in the pool.

3. Keeping the the skim vac close to the surface of the of the water, make you way to the skimmer being sure not to let air into the vac hose. Place skim vac into skimmer through the top or the throat of the skimmer on-top of the skimmer basket.

4. Go to the Pool Pump area and turn the pool pump off. Change the filter valve to the “WASTE” position and turn the pump back on. You are now taking water out of the pool.
Make sure the Skim-Vac did not come loose over the skimmer basket and is securely sealed over the basket.

5. Slowly close the valves for the remaining skimmers if you have more than one skimmer. Leave the valve to the skimmer that the vacuum hose is connected to fully open.
Slowly close the Main Drain valve about half way. This will be the optimal setting for vacuuming.

6. Begin slowly vacuuming like normal in the shallow end being careful not to stir up the debris.

7. As debris is collected in the skimmer basket under the Skim-Vac, and in the pump basket, the level of suction will decrease. Vacuum performance will also decrease. You may need to stop vacuuming and turn off the pool pump, clean the skimmer basket AND the pump basket, then resume vacuuming. Note: at this time you may need to refill the pool. Repeat as needed.

8. When you are finished vacuuming, turn the pool pump off and disconnect the Skim-Vac. Clean the skimmer basket and the pump basket. Refill pool to the middle of the skimmer opening. With the pool pump off, turn the filter valve back to the “FILTER” position. You did it. You’re back now to filtering the pool as normal. This is a perfect time to get out your test kit and check your readings for chlorine and pH. Better yet, take a water sample to your local pool professional and ask them, “Is my pool water safe for swimmers?”

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Remove debris and pump water off winter cover
Remove winter cover, clean, and store for the season
Connect all hoses
​Long hose from skimmer (box on the side of pool) to front of pump housing
Short hose from pump (located between the strainer housing and pump motor) to filter valve. (Your filter valve should have markings that state which hoses connect to each opening)
Long hose from filter valve to return (jet coming back into the pool)
Attach backwash (waste) hose to filter valve head. (We typically use a blue vinyl flat hose)
Replace plugs
​Attach the drain plug to the bottom of the sand filter
​Attach the site glass to valve head (This may not have been removed)
​Attach the pressure gauge to valve head (This may not have been removed)
Fill pool to appropriate level
Turn filter valve handle to backwash and turn power on. (This helps your pump catch prime, you will lose some water, and this will help you identify any hose clamps that may need tightening.)
Turn pool off, turn valve handle to rinse, and turn filter back on. Rinse for 30-45 seconds
Turn pool off, turn valve handle to filter. Operate as you normally would. Be sure to check for any leaks.
Add Shock and Algaecide to pool water and let circulate. Begin using Chlorine tablets as your normally would.
Be sure to bring a water sample to your Pool Professional 2-7 days after opening to ensure proper water balance.

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1) The very first step in closing a pool is to make sure that the water is completely
balanced. Chlorine preferably 3.0, PH 7.4-7.8, Alkalinity 120ppm-150ppm. Ifyou are not sure about these balances, you can take your water to either one of our
locations and we will be more than happy to help in this process. Ammonia has been a
huge issue along with Mustard Algae and Pink Slime/Mold. If you have had any one of
these issues with your pool please take extra precautions when closing your pool.
2) The next step would be to remove all debris from pool. The easiest way to complete
this process would be to vacuum your pool to waste. This allows for easy removal of all debris but also lowers the water level, thus preparing it for winterization. Now would be a good time to remove ladder or walk-in-stairs so the pool can be swept
thoroughly.
3) After the water level has been reduced below the return your filtration system should now be off and ready for winterization.
4) You can now remove all your connecting hoses, baskets from pump and skimmer,
pressure gauge, sight glass, and drain cap from bottom of filter (please do not put
back on filter. Place it with all the other items that have been removed for winter storage). Water will continue to drain from filter until empty.
5) If you choose to move pump and filter indoors for winter this is ok….you may have to remove the sand from filter due to the weight of the wet sand. Whether the pump is taken
indoors or left out, all water must be removed from the strainer housing. If left outdoors you can add pool antifreeze directly into strainer housing for protection. If you have an automatic chlorinator you can also use pool antifreeze there too.
6) If you have not added your closing chemicals to your pool now would be a good time. Follow closing kit instructions. (If using copper algaecide please circulate 24-48 hrs. prior to closing.)
7) If you are not using an air pillow please skip to step 9.
8) Now when using an air pillow please position pillow in center of pool. Use a rope to tie down
the pillow in a stationary position.
9) Last major step…..place cover on pool. Run cable through eyelets pulling cover over top rails.
Use the winch to tighten the cover down. (When cover reaches 3 to 4 inches of excess water on top it is time to remove it by pumping it off.)
10) Make sure if you have a cartridge filter that you thoroughly clean it/dry it before placing it into winter storage.
11) If you have a chlorine generator (salt) please make sure cell has been cleaned thus preparing
it for next pool season.
12) Have a wonderful winter and we will see you in the spring!

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Energy Efficiency (3)

Depending upon utility rates, pool characteristics, and equipment selected, your savings can be significant. It is possible to recoup the premium cost of an upgrade from standard equipment to energy efficient equipment in the first year of operation. For example, a system featuring an energy efficient high performance pump, LED Lighting, and an induced draft high efficient heater can deliver a savings of over $900 annually compared to a standard equipment setup.

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Depending on the size of your pool, filtration equipment, and heating requirements, your energy driven equipment may operate up to 12 hours per day to properly circulate your water for effective filtration. A small increase in efficiency can yield larger savings later; therefore, the right pool equipment is essential to your power bill. Whether you’re building a new pool or replacing existing equipment, your equipment selection can save you a significant amount of money in the long run.

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Use the water pressure of your pool to generate power to light up your pool.

No wiring or batteries needed!
Simply replace your standard 1 1/2 inch threaded eyeball
Can be installed in seconds.

image

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How To Videos (4)

Yes.

It’s the Dolphin Supreme M4

Cleans pool floor, cove, walls and waterline
Recommended for in-ground residential pools up to 50 ft. in length

The Dolphin Supreme M4 raises the bar for robotic pool cleaners, representing the latest generation of dolphin technology.

Dolphin Exclusive Features:
Weekly timer — preset cleaning cycles throughout the week!
Full filter indicator lets you know it’s time to clean the cartridge
Additional 3rd underside scrubbing brush powers away dirt and debris!
Quick-n-easy top access filter cartridge
Remote Ready for guided navigation
Patented swivel cable helps prevent tangling
Incredibly efficient – costs less than 15 cents to clean the pool.
In-store repairable right at your local Dolphin retailer!

More:
Scrubs, vacuums and filters all pool surfaces in just 2.5 hours.
Includes caddy for portability and storage
Large inner filter cartridge, collects dirt, debris and even dust particles.
Plug-n-play! No pre-installation needed, no connections to pool system.
Self-programmed for optimal pool scanning.
36 month warranty – spare parts and labor.

M4 Specifications:
Cycle time: 2.5 hours
Cable length: 60 ft.
Filter: Fine porosity
Suction rate: 4,233 gal (USA) per hour
Unit weight: 22 lbs.

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In-ground Pools (23)

Yes! We specialize in new liners, new filter systems, and refinished concrete decks. We have the ability to change that aging pool to a backyard oasis to begin new and exciting memories for your family. Renovations usually take just a few days and can totally change the look of your backyard and increase the value of your home. Make an appointment with our staff for a free backyard consultation. Here is just one example: (The pool set for 14 years)

Before

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After

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A steel wall, concrete bottom, vinyl liner pool works best for the Ohio Valley. They are strong and can take the stresses of high water table and the freezing thawing of the winter season.

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A lot of people do that. If it’s more than you want to do, call us to schedule a pool opening. Here we go:

 
Take The Cover Off
The very first thing you need to do is remove the cover from your pool. If you have a safety cover, you will need an installation rod and hex key to remove the springs from the anchors and screw them down flush to the concrete.

If you have a standard tarp cover with water bags, just remove the water bags and empty them to store for the winter.

Make sure you drain the water off the cover and remove any large debris before taking off the cover. It will make your job a lot easier and it will prevent that stuff from getting into your pool water.

Next, take the cover from one end of the pool and continually fold in half until it’s easy to remove the cover from the pool.

Remove The Winter Plugs
Walk around your pool and find all the return lines. Remove the winter plugs from the return lines and step jets. Replace plugs with your directional flows into the returns.

Remove the ice compensator from the skimmer buckets. Depending on how you closed it, there should be a plastic bottle, sponge, or “gizmo” in your skimmer that prevents the ice from cracking it. Replace the baskets.

At this time, make sure your pool is filled mid-way up the skimmer opening before starting your filter system.

Get Your Filter System Ready
Before you start your filter system, make sure all of the drain plugs are properly installed. Your filter system should have one main drain plug and your pump may have two.

Replace the pressure gauge on your filter as well as any other parts that belong like a sight glass.

Check the o-ring on your pump lid to make sure it’s in good condition. Bend it between your fingers to check for cracks. If everything looks ok, just apply a Silicone o-ring lubricant before screwing the pump lid back on.

Once everything is in place, turn your Main Drain valve to the open position, and start your filter system on backwash for about a minute (Note: Your pump may have to be primed if no water is coming through. Turn off the pump and remove the lid. Fill the pump housing with water. You can use a hose or a giant bucket of pool water to do this. Replace the lid and your pump should prime itself). This purges the line from antifreeze. Do the same thing with the Skimmer valve. Stop the pump and place the filter valve in the rinse position for about 20 seconds. Stop the pump again and turn the filter valve to filter position and restart the pump. Your pool should be functioning now normally.

Test and Shock
Once your pool is up and running, take a water sample to your nearest pool dealer to get a professional water analysis done. Make sure your pH and alkalinity are properly balanced.

At this point, it’s a good idea to add the proper sanitizer to your water (i.e. chorine tablets). Also, shocking your pool and adding a good algaecide right away is a good idea too.

Cleaning Up
Make sure you clean your winter cover before storing it away for the season. Check your local pool supply dealer for winter cover cleaner.

Also, vacuum your pool using a manual vacuum at first to get all the heavy debris out on waste position. After that, you can continue to use your automatic pool cleaner.

Install your deck equipment like hand rails and ladders. Lastly, take a sample of your pool water to your Pool Professional Store and ask : Is my pool water safe to Swim? If they say yes, you’re good to go. Enjoy your Summer

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Most people begin to open their pool in the middle of April to the end of May.

By May 31st, most everyone’s pool is open to take advantage of Memorial Day holiday weekend.

I would suggest that if you have a mesh cover on your pool, open it in Early April to avoid the chance of getting algae. If you wait to the end of May, you will have a green pool (pictured below) and it will take a lot of time and money to get it clear again. The kids are not going to be happy either.

image

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No. Chlorine in a pool is one to three parts-per-million (1ppm – 3ppm). This is very similar to the city water that comes out of our faucet, and people have been watering their gardens with this for years.

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Don’t gamble with your safety — if you’re a professional excavator or a homeowner, smart digging always requires a call to 811. Knowing where underground utility lines are buried before you dig will help protect you from injury and prevent damages to utilities, service disruptions and potential fines and repair costs. Whether you’re planting a tree or shrub, or installing a deck or pool, every job requires a call—Even if you’ve called before for a similar project. The depth of utility lines varies, and there may be multiple utility lines in one common area. Marked lines show you the approximate location of underground lines and help prevent undesired consequences such as injury, service disruptions to an entire neighborhood, or costly fines and repair costs.

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Each color indicates a universal color to what is buried below ground.
Red – Electric
Orange – Communications, Telephone/CATV
Blue – Potable Water
Green – Sewer/Drainage
Yellow – Gas/Petroleum Pipe Line
Purple – Reclaimed Water
White – Premark site of intended excavation

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When considering what you’ll need to make your project a success, don’t forget the most important first step for any outdoor home improvement project: calling 811 before you dig.
As any professional will tell you, smart digging always means calling 811 before every job.
Homeowners often make risky assumptions about whether or not they should get their utility lines marked, but every digging job requires a call – even “small” projects like planting trees and shrubs.
When you call before you dig, you’ll prevent unintended consequences such as injury to you or your family, damage to your property, utility service outages to the entire neighborhood and potential fines and repair costs.
After all, do you really want to be the person who knocks out the neighborhood’s cable service during the big game?

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0 people found this helpful.


Yes.

It’s the Dolphin Supreme M4

Cleans pool floor, cove, walls and waterline
Recommended for in-ground residential pools up to 50 ft. in length

The Dolphin Supreme M4 raises the bar for robotic pool cleaners, representing the latest generation of dolphin technology.

Dolphin Exclusive Features:
Weekly timer — preset cleaning cycles throughout the week!
Full filter indicator lets you know it’s time to clean the cartridge
Additional 3rd underside scrubbing brush powers away dirt and debris!
Quick-n-easy top access filter cartridge
Remote Ready for guided navigation
Patented swivel cable helps prevent tangling
Incredibly efficient – costs less than 15 cents to clean the pool.
In-store repairable right at your local Dolphin retailer!

More:
Scrubs, vacuums and filters all pool surfaces in just 2.5 hours.
Includes caddy for portability and storage
Large inner filter cartridge, collects dirt, debris and even dust particles.
Plug-n-play! No pre-installation needed, no connections to pool system.
Self-programmed for optimal pool scanning.
36 month warranty – spare parts and labor.

M4 Specifications:
Cycle time: 2.5 hours
Cable length: 60 ft.
Filter: Fine porosity
Suction rate: 4,233 gal (USA) per hour
Unit weight: 22 lbs.

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When the filter pressure rise 8-10 PSI over the clean starting pressure it is time to backwash. Turn the pump off and rotate the multiport valve to backwash. Turn on the pump and the dirty water will flow out the waste line. Once the water runs clear in the valve’s sight glass, turn off the pump. Rotate the valve to rinse. Turn on the pump for 20-30 seconds. This will clean out the plumbing lines and reset the sand bed. Turn off the pump, rotate the valve to filter position and begin to filter. Take a reading of this new clean starting pressure, so you have a reference point for the next backwash cycle. Water may need to be added to the pool to replace the backwashed water.

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Use the water pressure of your pool to generate power to light up your pool.

No wiring or batteries needed!
Simply replace your standard 1 1/2 inch threaded eyeball
Can be installed in seconds.

image

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There comes a time when a pool owner needs to vacuum a pool that has large amounts of debris such as heavy algae or leaves (Usually this is the case when you first open the pool). If the homeowner vacuums like normal, they have a good chance of contaminating their filter, plugging up the circulation lines, or just clouding up their pool.
What is the solution? Those that have filters with the 6 way Multi-port valve can vacuum their pool on Waste. This position by-passes the filter and sends all the unwanted debris through the waste line. This eliminates clogging up the filter or clouding up their pool. Note: this procedure drains the pool so you may have to stop in the middle of this procedure to refill the pool.

Steps to Vacuuming on Waste:

1. Connect the vacuum head to the T-pole and then connect the swivel end of the vacuum hose (if equipped) to the vacuum head. Fully extend the T-pole and lower the vacuum head to the bottom of the deep end of the pool. Use care not to disturb any debris on the pool floor.

2. Connect the skim vac to the other end of the hose and place over a return fitting to purge the air from the vac hose. At this time the vac head and all of the vac hose is in the pool.

3. Keeping the the skim vac close to the surface of the of the water, make you way to the skimmer being sure not to let air into the vac hose. Place skim vac into skimmer through the top or the throat of the skimmer on-top of the skimmer basket.

4. Go to the Pool Pump area and turn the pool pump off. Change the filter valve to the “WASTE” position and turn the pump back on. You are now taking water out of the pool.
Make sure the Skim-Vac did not come loose over the skimmer basket and is securely sealed over the basket.

5. Slowly close the valves for the remaining skimmers if you have more than one skimmer. Leave the valve to the skimmer that the vacuum hose is connected to fully open.
Slowly close the Main Drain valve about half way. This will be the optimal setting for vacuuming.

6. Begin slowly vacuuming like normal in the shallow end being careful not to stir up the debris.

7. As debris is collected in the skimmer basket under the Skim-Vac, and in the pump basket, the level of suction will decrease. Vacuum performance will also decrease. You may need to stop vacuuming and turn off the pool pump, clean the skimmer basket AND the pump basket, then resume vacuuming. Note: at this time you may need to refill the pool. Repeat as needed.

8. When you are finished vacuuming, turn the pool pump off and disconnect the Skim-Vac. Clean the skimmer basket and the pump basket. Refill pool to the middle of the skimmer opening. With the pool pump off, turn the filter valve back to the “FILTER” position. You did it. You’re back now to filtering the pool as normal. This is a perfect time to get out your test kit and check your readings for chlorine and pH. Better yet, take a water sample to your local pool professional and ask them, “Is my pool water safe for swimmers?”

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The “No Holes” Pool Fence is perfect where the landlord will not allow holes into the deck, the need is only temporary and you don’t want the holes, or you simply cannot stand the thought of holes in your beautiful deck.

Here’s how it works:

First lay out and connect the high-density polyethylene bases securely; surrounding the pool or area you want to block off.
Then, fill each base with water. Each one of these bases individually weighs around 65 pounds after being filled with water, but when they are connected; their combined weight is in the hundreds if not thousands of pounds, making this fence secure and immovable.
Once the bases have been properly placed and set up you can then install the guardian premier pool fence into the bases with ease.

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First of all, you need to know if it’s a concrete pool, a fiberglass pool, or a vinyl liner pool. You should never drain a fiberglass because if the water table is high, it will act like a boat and float up destroying everything. The concrete pool could do the same if the hydrostatic valve at the bottom of the pool is not functioning properly. If the water table is high, even the vinyl liner pools could sustain damage and leave wrinkles. In other words, seek the advise of the pool professional when contemplating draining a pool.

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From Hayward Website: https://www.haywardnet.com/pdfs/Heater_Selection_Guide.pdf

image

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If you know that you’re gonna add these items in the future, have your builder make provision for the added equipment. For example, when adding a slide, have your builder install a water source in the deck near the future location. When adding a heater, if it’s gas, make provisions for the gas line and make sure the equipment pad is large enough. If it’s a Heat Pump, make sure the wire going to the equipment pad is large enough to handle the additional load.

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We have 2 locations, Madison and Scottsburg. Most of our clients are in a 30 mile radius of those 2 cities.

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For the most part, yes. There are some restraints. If you want a diving board or slide, one must follow the specifications of the manufacturer. Always keep safety in mind when designing or changing depths of a pool.
Check with your pool professional before making any changes in design.

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All swimming pools need a permit to be constructed. We understand that this would be an inconvenience for our customers, so we will handle the permit process for you. Since we build pools in many towns we have established relationships with town inspectors and office personnel. We do not charge you for the permit. Many towns have a different payment scale but on average permit fees are about $150-$300.

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Yes. In-ground pools have a payment schedule typically with 10% down at the signing of a contract. 40% is due when the pool is excavated and the steel package is on site. Another 40% is due when the pool is back filled and ready for forming of the concrete apron around the pool. The balance is due when everything is completed and all instructions on care and operation of the pool have been discussed.

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From start to finish, about 3 weeks, depending on the weather.

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Anytime is a great time to build, but obviously most people think Spring/Summer is the best time to build. This actually is not always the case since that is the busiest time of year. We find the fall to be an ideal time to build since you are then guaranteed a full season come next spring, plus there are much less delays in the fall/winter since weather is more predictable and town building inspectors are less busy for necessary inspections. Plus now come spring time you can do your landscape without the pool guys in the yard. We have been known to dig pools in snowy weather just to get a head start to ensure a full season for our customers. It is much nicer to be enjoying nice weather and see water in your pool than to watch it be built. So anytime including fall/winter is a good time to start your new pool.

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Safety (8)

Nothing is more important in pool safety than adult supervision.

Here are seven steps to pool safety.

image

Watch the video.

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Virginia Graeme BakerThe Virginia Graeme Baker Pool & Spa Safety Act (P&SS Act) takes its name from Virginia Graeme Baker, a young girl who drowned after she was trapped under water by the powerful suction from a hot tub drain.

A twin and the youngest of five, 7-year-old Graeme, as her family called her, was the daughter of Nancy and James Baker IV, the son of former Secretary of State James Baker III. A member of her community swim and diving team, Graeme was able to swim without assistance since she was 3 years old.

In June 2002, Graeme became stuck to a hot tub drain and was unable to pull herself free. Efforts by her mother to pull Graeme from the drain proved unsuccessful. Two men who eventually freed Graeme from the spa pulled so hard that the drain cover broke from the force. Graeme died from drowning, but the real cause of her death was suction entrapment due to a faulty drain cover.

After her tragic death, her mother, Nancy Baker, worked tirelessly to advocate for pool and spa safety. Mrs. Baker, her family and Safe Kids Worldwide actively lobbied Congress to win support for a law to require anti-entrapment drain covers and other safety devices, as needed. The statute, which was sponsored by U.S. Rep. Debbie Wasserman Schultz of Florida, was signed into law by the President in December 2007.

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Chlorine in swimming pools kills the germs that may make people sick, but it takes time. Chlorine in properly disinfected pools kills most germs that cause RWIs within minutes. However, it takes longer to kill some germs such as Cryptosporidium that can survive for days in even a properly disinfected pool.

Also, many things can reduce chlorine levels in pool water. Some examples are sunlight, dirt, debris, and material from swimmer’s bodies. Healthy swimming behaviors and good hygiene are needed to protect you and your family from RWIs and will help stop germs from getting in the pool.

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Don’t gamble with your safety — if you’re a professional excavator or a homeowner, smart digging always requires a call to 811. Knowing where underground utility lines are buried before you dig will help protect you from injury and prevent damages to utilities, service disruptions and potential fines and repair costs. Whether you’re planting a tree or shrub, or installing a deck or pool, every job requires a call—Even if you’ve called before for a similar project. The depth of utility lines varies, and there may be multiple utility lines in one common area. Marked lines show you the approximate location of underground lines and help prevent undesired consequences such as injury, service disruptions to an entire neighborhood, or costly fines and repair costs.

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Each color indicates a universal color to what is buried below ground.
Red – Electric
Orange – Communications, Telephone/CATV
Blue – Potable Water
Green – Sewer/Drainage
Yellow – Gas/Petroleum Pipe Line
Purple – Reclaimed Water
White – Premark site of intended excavation

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When considering what you’ll need to make your project a success, don’t forget the most important first step for any outdoor home improvement project: calling 811 before you dig.
As any professional will tell you, smart digging always means calling 811 before every job.
Homeowners often make risky assumptions about whether or not they should get their utility lines marked, but every digging job requires a call – even “small” projects like planting trees and shrubs.
When you call before you dig, you’ll prevent unintended consequences such as injury to you or your family, damage to your property, utility service outages to the entire neighborhood and potential fines and repair costs.
After all, do you really want to be the person who knocks out the neighborhood’s cable service during the big game?

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You don’t have to be a chemist to keep your pool sparkling clean.

Following are some guidelines for using test strips to obtain accurate water analysis results.

Follow the directions that came with the kit. Sounds simple, doesn’t it? However, there have been many cases where a user inadvertently used the directions that came with another manufacturer’s strips or used directions from an older kit. Most inaccurate test results occur when individuals do not follow directions¾or follow the wrong directions! Test strips are continually improving and becoming more accurate, and you should never assume that the directions on one container are going to apply to another container’s strips. In addition, not all manufacturers’ test strips are the same, so it is essential to read and follow the directions on each container.
Store test strips in a low humidity environment at room temperature. Test strips will be most effective over a long period of time if they are stored properly. Suitable storage will give you confidence in your results until the product has reached the date of expiration.
Keep the cap on tight between uses. Doing this will prevent moisture from entering the bottle of unused strips. It is important that moisture not be introduced to the test strips until you use them in your pool or spa.
Keep wet fingers out of the bottle. The test strips won’t know the difference between the water on your fingers and the pool or spa water! So, make sure that the only water your test strips are reacting with is the pool or spa water you intend to measure.
Do not use expired test strips. Most containers of test strips will display an expiration date somewhere on the container. Always be aware of this date when using or purchasing test strips. Regardless of how the container has been stored or handled, test strips have a definite shelf life and should not be used after the product has expired. Using test strips after this date will likely lead to inaccurate results. Therefore, replace any bottles that have expired.
Test strips are among the easiest and fastest methods for testing water. By following the above guidelines, you can also ensure that test strips provide an accurate method for measuring the properties of pool or spa water, leading to a clean and healthy pool or spa.

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The “No Holes” Pool Fence is perfect where the landlord will not allow holes into the deck, the need is only temporary and you don’t want the holes, or you simply cannot stand the thought of holes in your beautiful deck.

Here’s how it works:

First lay out and connect the high-density polyethylene bases securely; surrounding the pool or area you want to block off.
Then, fill each base with water. Each one of these bases individually weighs around 65 pounds after being filled with water, but when they are connected; their combined weight is in the hundreds if not thousands of pounds, making this fence secure and immovable.
Once the bases have been properly placed and set up you can then install the guardian premier pool fence into the bases with ease.

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Vinyl Liners (2)

We sell and install McEwen liners. The “*” denotes 27 mil.
To get a better look, click here to go to McEwen Industries Website.

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Water Care (26)

Volume….To calculate pool volume in gallons, multiply the surface area by the average
depth and conversion factor of 7.5. This factor requires the length, width, and depth to be
measured in feet.

Example Circular: Area= R x R x 3.14
Gallons = area x average depth x 7.5

Example Rectangle: L x W
Gallons = Area x Average Depth x 7.5

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Disinfection is accomplished when the transmission of infections between persons or from water is kept to a minimum and algae and other nuisance organisms are controlled.
Disinfection is the process of destroying microorganisms that might cause human disease.
The term disinfectant is sometimes called sanitizer.

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The most common disinfectants used are chlorine and bromine which also have the capabilities of oxidizing. Oxidization plays an important role in maintaining a sanitary condition. The disinfectant residual has to be maintained at all times for bacteria to be removed.

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No. There are alternatives to chlorine. Biguanides (PHMB) is an organic polymeric
disinfectant that is used in conjunction with Hydrogen Peroxide (H202), which is an
oxidizer. This disinfection system is largely marketed to residential applications.
Biquanides are not compatible with common products such as chlorine-releasing
chemicals, copper algaecides, potassium monopersulfate, etc. Biquanides can however
create a mildew and slime that can build up in plumbing. In-grounds are more susceptible
to this process.

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There are 2 stabilized chlorines: Trichloro-s-triazinetrione (Trichlor) & Dichloro-s-
triazinetrione (Dichlor).

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Sodium Hypochlorite (Liquid Chlorine), Calcium Hypochlorite, Lithium Hypochlorite, and Chlorine Gas.

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Stabilizer is Cynaric Acid (CYA), it functions as a stabilizer for free chlorine. It’s job is to protect your pool from the sun. It helps to maintain a free chlorine reading. Cynaric levels should be kept between 30 to 50 ppm for optimum chlorine protection. Stabilizer does not stabilize bromine.

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Free chlorine (FC) is the active available disinfectant in the water. The common practice in
pools is to maintain the free chlorine 2.0 to 4.0 ppm. The accepted minimum is 1.0 ppm in the U.S.

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Combined Chlorine (CC) forms when free chlorine (FC) reacts with two types of
contaminants in the water. When free chlorine reacts with ammonia, inorganic chlormaines
are produced. The presence of combined chlorine poses several challenges. Chlormaines
evaporate and are the cause of the chlorine-like smell often witnessed in indoor pools.

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Bromine belongs to the same family as chlorine; they are both halogens. It is a disinfectant, has good algicidal properties, and is an oxidizer. Bromine is destroyed by sunlight. About half of bromine can be destroyed by sunlight in 60 to 90 minutes. Cynaric
Acid does not protect Bromine from ultraviolet sunlight destruction. Once brominating
products are used, Bromide will remain in the water. Bromine is mainly used in hot tubs, and some indoor pools.

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Chlorine can be produced on-site by utilizing a mixture of sodium chloride salt and water.
Electricity is passed through the salt solution and chlorine gas is produced. Permanent,
specially treated and fabricated rare-metal electrodes are used to supply the electrical
energy to the solution. There are two basic styles or types of chlorine generations systems. The first, called “in-line,” produces chlorine utilizing salt that is dissolved in the pool or spa water. The second, called “brine method,” uses and off-line system to produce chlorine from a solution of salt and distilled water.

In-Line Generation: In-line system require salt to be added to the pool or spa water. The circulation system passes the salt water through a device that contains electrochemical cells. These cells convert the sodium chloride into free chlorine.

When using Chlorine Generation (salt) always purchase the highest grade of salt available.
Salt has a tendency to increase TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) The higher the grade of salt
the less TDS levels. Check with your local pool dealer for higher grades of salt.

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Ozone is a gaseous molecule with three oxygen atoms and slightly soluble in water. It is
considered a supplemental oxidizer and disinfectant since it does not create a disinfectant
residual in the water. It must be used in conjunction with an disinfectant that maintains a residual in the water.

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Ultraviolet light (UV) is a high-energy, low wavelength light that provides a non-chemical method to disinfect water. UV is considered a supplemental oxidizer and disinfectant since it does not create a disinfectant residual in the water. It must be used in conjunction with a disinfectant that provides a residual. UV can not be transported or stored. It must be generated on site for pool use.

UV acts as a disinfectant by killing or inactivating bacteria, viruses, and parasites. Unlike
chemical systems UV inactivates pathogens with high energy. If the intensity of light is high enough and the exposure is long enough, UV stops reproduction by damaging the DNA of the pathogens.

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Properly balanced water creates an in environment that optimizes the disinfection process.
It also protects the pool/spa system components form chemical corrosion, thus increasing
the useful operating life of equipment. Properly balanced water provides a more enjoyable
swimming experience for the pool/spa users.

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PH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, Total Dissolved Solids, Temperature

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pH stands for “potens hydrogen,” which is Latin for the “power of hydrogen (ion).” As a
water balance factor pH has the most impact of properly balanced water and user comfort. The recommended pH of pool/spa water is slightly alkaline (7.2—7.4). The pH of tears from a human eye is about 7.5. To assist in user comfort, the ideal range for pH is 7.4 to 7.6. The acceptable range is 7.2-7.8. There are many influencing factors that affect the pH of pool or spa water. The include user waste, disinfectants, source water, air-borne debris, water balance chemicals, aeration, and evaporation.

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Low pH can create an environment where the water become corrosive. This will etch, stain, wrinkle vinyl liners, cause eye/skin irritation. High pH can create a environment of scaling.

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We recommend changing the sand every three to five years. While we have seen filters go longer without changing the sand and still do the job, they are not as efficient as they should be.
Filter sand has been ground to a size of .45 to .55 mm in diameter and is very rough when new. This roughness is what makes the sand efficient at filtering out the particles of dirt in your water. As this roughness is smoothed out – as stones in a stream wear smooth over time – your filter’s efficiency goes down. This means that your system has to run more frequently to accomplish the same task.

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The first step in changing the sand is to create a checklist of the things you’ll need.

Pool filter sand (check your filter’s manual for how much sand you’ll need or ask your Pool Professional)
A screwdriver
A shop vac
Duct tape

Next, make sure there is no water going to your filter and remove the drain plug from your tank. It may take some time for your filter to completely drain, depending on the size of your tank. Filters with the multiport valve mounted on top will generally require disconnecting the plumbing running to the valve.

The third step in changing your sand is to remove the old sand

To remove the old sand from your swimming pool filter, you will need to open the filter:
Filters with the multiport valve mounted on top will generally require disconnecting the plumbing running to the valve.
If you do not have unions on these pipes, you will need to cut them to remove the multiport valve (this would be a good time to install unions on these lines to facilitate future service on your filter).
Filters with the multiport valve mounted to the side will have either a small top which can be removed or a tank which is bolted/clamped in the middle that can be taken apart.
If your filter is a two-piece tank which is bolted/clamped in the middle:
Pull the drain plug first to allow the water to drain before pulling the tank apart.
Once you have pulled it apart, it is an easy matter to dig out the sand.
If your filter is not the two-piece type but has the small opening at the top from either the multiport valve or cover, there is a simple way to remove the sand.
The easiest way is to use a shop vac to remove the sand.

If you have a top mounted multiport valve, there will be a stand pipe directly in the center of the opening. Do not try to push or pull this out of the way. Tape the stand up pipe with duct tape to keep the sand from getting down the pipe. Remove the tape after the new sand is in the tank.
Shop vac the old sand out.
If your valve is side-mounted, you will have an overdrain which fills the opening at the top. This overdrain is removable and, most of the time, simply lifts out.
Now shop vac the old sand out.
Once you have removed all the sand you will want to clean and examine the laterals thoroughly.

Now you are ready to replace the sand.

First, replace the drain cap.
Then add water until the tank is half-full. This will cushion the laterals when you put the new sand in.
After adding each bag of sand, reach in and level out the sand bed. Remove the duct tape.
You will need to add as much sand as the manufacturer indicates on the label on the tank. If the label is gone, consult your swimming pool professional.
After you have added the proper amount of sand, you will need to reassemble the filter tank and/or multiport valve.
It is very important that you start the system in backwash mode. This will flush out the dust from the sand and also allow the sand to settle completely around the laterals after backwashing. Run the system on rinse for about 30 seconds.

Now, you’re ready to turn the multiport valve to filter. Congratulations. You’ve made your filter much more efficient. Enjoy your Summer.

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It is critical to test your pool water regularly (at least once a week) to be sure chemical levels are properly balanced to ensure safety and swimmer comfort. Test strips are a quick (30 second) way to test the pool for adequate sanitizer levels as well as pH and total alkalinity. Proper testing also ensures that calcium levels are maintained and that there are no metals present in the pool water. These tests can be completed by you or your pool professional.

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A big box retailer will not stock the variety of chemicals that a professional pool supply store can provide. You may be able to choose from several different brands at a professional pool supply store. Also, most of the highest quality brands can only be found through authorized dealers and NOT in a mass merchant.
Unlike the big box retailer, the pool store will be able to test your water (this is usually a free service) and recommend solutions for possible problems with clarity. If you build a relationship with the staff at a pool store, they will help you to have a clear and safe pool for your family.

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Chlorine in swimming pools kills the germs that may make people sick, but it takes time. Chlorine in properly disinfected pools kills most germs that cause RWIs within minutes. However, it takes longer to kill some germs such as Cryptosporidium that can survive for days in even a properly disinfected pool.

Also, many things can reduce chlorine levels in pool water. Some examples are sunlight, dirt, debris, and material from swimmer’s bodies. Healthy swimming behaviors and good hygiene are needed to protect you and your family from RWIs and will help stop germs from getting in the pool.

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The main reason that you should purchase chemicals from a professional pool store instead of a big box retailer is the knowledge and expertise of the pool professionals. Your swimming pool is a huge investment. You want to be sure that you are purchasing the right chemicals and treatment to prevent problems in the future.

In addition, professional pool retailers offer reputable brands that are proven in the industry to function consistently and efficiently. You can damage your liner or gunite pool or hot tub by using poor quality chemicals, which can cost you much more money in the long run. Not to mention the ill effects some of these can have on your skin, hair, and eyes!

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Yes.

It’s the Dolphin Supreme M4

Cleans pool floor, cove, walls and waterline
Recommended for in-ground residential pools up to 50 ft. in length

The Dolphin Supreme M4 raises the bar for robotic pool cleaners, representing the latest generation of dolphin technology.

Dolphin Exclusive Features:
Weekly timer — preset cleaning cycles throughout the week!
Full filter indicator lets you know it’s time to clean the cartridge
Additional 3rd underside scrubbing brush powers away dirt and debris!
Quick-n-easy top access filter cartridge
Remote Ready for guided navigation
Patented swivel cable helps prevent tangling
Incredibly efficient – costs less than 15 cents to clean the pool.
In-store repairable right at your local Dolphin retailer!

More:
Scrubs, vacuums and filters all pool surfaces in just 2.5 hours.
Includes caddy for portability and storage
Large inner filter cartridge, collects dirt, debris and even dust particles.
Plug-n-play! No pre-installation needed, no connections to pool system.
Self-programmed for optimal pool scanning.
36 month warranty – spare parts and labor.

M4 Specifications:
Cycle time: 2.5 hours
Cable length: 60 ft.
Filter: Fine porosity
Suction rate: 4,233 gal (USA) per hour
Unit weight: 22 lbs.

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When the filter pressure rise 8-10 PSI over the clean starting pressure it is time to backwash. Turn the pump off and rotate the multiport valve to backwash. Turn on the pump and the dirty water will flow out the waste line. Once the water runs clear in the valve’s sight glass, turn off the pump. Rotate the valve to rinse. Turn on the pump for 20-30 seconds. This will clean out the plumbing lines and reset the sand bed. Turn off the pump, rotate the valve to filter position and begin to filter. Take a reading of this new clean starting pressure, so you have a reference point for the next backwash cycle. Water may need to be added to the pool to replace the backwashed water.

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You don’t have to be a chemist to keep your pool sparkling clean.

Following are some guidelines for using test strips to obtain accurate water analysis results.

Follow the directions that came with the kit. Sounds simple, doesn’t it? However, there have been many cases where a user inadvertently used the directions that came with another manufacturer’s strips or used directions from an older kit. Most inaccurate test results occur when individuals do not follow directions¾or follow the wrong directions! Test strips are continually improving and becoming more accurate, and you should never assume that the directions on one container are going to apply to another container’s strips. In addition, not all manufacturers’ test strips are the same, so it is essential to read and follow the directions on each container.
Store test strips in a low humidity environment at room temperature. Test strips will be most effective over a long period of time if they are stored properly. Suitable storage will give you confidence in your results until the product has reached the date of expiration.
Keep the cap on tight between uses. Doing this will prevent moisture from entering the bottle of unused strips. It is important that moisture not be introduced to the test strips until you use them in your pool or spa.
Keep wet fingers out of the bottle. The test strips won’t know the difference between the water on your fingers and the pool or spa water! So, make sure that the only water your test strips are reacting with is the pool or spa water you intend to measure.
Do not use expired test strips. Most containers of test strips will display an expiration date somewhere on the container. Always be aware of this date when using or purchasing test strips. Regardless of how the container has been stored or handled, test strips have a definite shelf life and should not be used after the product has expired. Using test strips after this date will likely lead to inaccurate results. Therefore, replace any bottles that have expired.
Test strips are among the easiest and fastest methods for testing water. By following the above guidelines, you can also ensure that test strips provide an accurate method for measuring the properties of pool or spa water, leading to a clean and healthy pool or spa.

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